By the time you read this, minds will no doubt have been made up as to which is cooler, this year’s film version of Miami Vice or the vintage 1980s television original. For most Miamiphiles, though, the point is moot: The arrival of the movie, two decades after the celebrated show completed its run, simply underscored the city’s enduring status as a nexus of style. Whoever you think makes the more nuanced Crockett, the more complex Tubbs, the sleek art deco and neon backdrop of South Beach continues to play a starring role. Propelled by Miami’s popularity, the city is experiencing what’s been described as a golden age of architecture, with some of the world’s finest architects designing eagerly anticipated civic, commercial and residential spaces. The rapid growth is a double-edged sword, however, when it comes to golf. Given the various demands on real estate here, the greater Miami area hasn’t attracted the profusion of new course construction seen almost everywhere else in Florida—home to more than 1,200 courses, the most of any state in the country. On the other hand, several of Miami’s iconic golf resorts—Doral, Turnberry Isle and The Biltmore—are reopening this fall and winter after extensive renovations and have never looked better. A paucity of golf is not the problem in Miami; it’s the abundance of so much else—hip restaurants and nightclubs, modish hotels and pools—that may overwhelm you. So break out the T-shirt-and-blazer ensembles and start growing that stubble.
Where to Play
DORAL GOLF RESORT & SPA, BLUE **** 1/2
The Blue Monster, as it’s universally known, is one of those larger-than-life courses, though the reason for its renown is a running debate. Yes, certain holes are legendary, particularly the 437-yard par-four eighteenth, an object lesson in risk- reward, with water running along the entire left side and pinching in at key places. But, some argue, that’s mainly because Doral has hosted a televised PGA Tour event annually since 1962, the year after it opened; and besides, the decision to stage the tournament at the expansive Doral Golf Resort & Spa has much to do with logistics. The Blue Monster, this line of argument goes, can no longer even be considered monstrous, as it stretches "only" 7,100 yards from the back tees. I say rubbish. In addition to the copious water hazards and some 120 bunkers, the course is defended forcefully by the frequent winds. The layout boasts some great par threes, including the 237-yard fourth. Furthermore, the resort staff is adept at moving golfers around Doral’s five courses (which receive 150,000 rounds a year), and walking—a rarity in Florida golf—is allowed. Finally, the Blue Monster recently underwent a four-month renovation, during which the greens were resurfaced to roll more smoothly and the bunkers rebuilt to restore some of Dick Wilson’s tricky strategic elements.
4400 N.W. 87th Avenue, Miami; 305-592-2000, doralresort.com. Yardage: 7,125. Par: 72. Slope: 130. Architect: Dick Wilson, 1961. Greens Fees: $225–$250.
CRANDON GOLF AT KEY BISCAYNE****
The perfect antidote to pricey resort golf, this affordable municipal course lies tucked away in a lushly tropical county park on Key Biscayne. The unspoiled natural setting—replete with palm trees, white and red mangroves and a dazzling assortment of waterfowl—belies its proximity to downtown Miami, a mere fifteen-minute drive away. A number of holes offer mesmerizing views of the city skyline across Biscayne Bay. Originally opened in 1972—the work of Robert von Hagge and Bruce Devlin—Crandon Park, the name commonly used for the course, hosted a Champions Tour event for years, entertaining the likes of Chi Chi Rodriguez, Lee Trevino and Gary Player. The layout received a thorough redesign (courtesy of von Hagge) in the early nineties following Hurricane Andrew. From the championship tees, it can play as long as 7,300 yards, with a whopping 145 slope, and includes a collection of par fives ranging from 555 to 638 yards. The layout features numerous doglegs as well as tons of sand and water. But the biggest challenge may be securing a tee time, as reservations are taken only five days in advance and discounts for Dade County residents make the course extremely popular.
6700 Crandon Boulevard, Key Biscayne; 305-361-9129, miamidade.gov/parks. Yardage: 7,301. Par: 72. Slope: 145. Architects: Robert von Hagge and Bruce Devlin, 1972. Greens Fees: $58–$148.
THE BILTMORE GOLF COURSE*** 1/2
It seems that no golf trip is complete, at least in the eastern United States, without a dose of Donald Ross, and The Biltmore is a poster child for the phenomenon. Built alongside the ornate 1920s-era hotel of the same name, the course rings with history. Thanks to a renovation in 1992, it also remains a viable test. Short by modern standards, the holes nonetheless pose their share of intrigue in the form of Ross’s uncanny bunker deployment and baffling green contours. The number-one handicap hole, the 406-yard par-four seventeenth, plays into the prevailing wind and requires an approach over a stream to a green perched above a bulkhead. Still, this is a true resort course: Most of the fairways are wide enough for snowbirds to swing away. The Biltmore also happens to be walkable, and a high proportion of golfers opt to play it on foot. Even the housing that lines parts of the course—mostly palatial and well- landscaped Old Florida–style homes—lends a measure of charm. The course accepts public play and has a local membership as well, so be sure to book early.
1210 Anastasia Avenue, Coral Gables; 305-669-9500. Yardage: 6,800. Par: 71. Slope: 126. Architect: Donald Ross, 1925. Greens Fees: $85–$175.
FAIRMONT TURNBERRY ISLE RESORT & CLUB, SOUTH *** 1/2
A more recent golf heritage belongs to the South course at Fairmont Turnberry Isle Resort & Club. The layout, a rather benign Robert Trent Jones Sr. eighteen that opened in 1971 (along with a more modest sister course, the North), is being redesigned by Raymond Floyd as part of a renovation of the entire resort; closed during the project, Turnberry Isle reopens on December 15. Although the South course stretches to more than 7,000 yards and water looms on all but four of the holes—most famously at the island-green par-five eighteenth—the layout lacks some of the penal aspects (encroaching fairway bunkers, well-guarded greens) commonly associated with Jones. Still, the South is stern enough to have hosted professional tournaments including the 1980 Senior PGA Championship, won by Arnold Palmer. The resort holds a place in golf lore as the site where the idea for a senior circuit (long before its rechristening as the Champions Tour) was hatched.
19999 West Country Club Drive, Aventura; 305-933-6929, fairmont.com. Yardage: TBD. Par: 71. Slope: TBD. Architect: Robert Trent Jones Sr., 1971. Greens Fees: TBD.
MIAMI BEACH GOLF CLUB *** 1/2
This course is remarkable not so much for its topography as its location: just five blocks from Collins Avenue, the epicenter of South Beach. And then there’s the backstory of Miami Beach Golf Club. Opened as Bayshore Golf Course in 1923, it served as an Army training ground during World War II and then was purchased by Miami in the late forties to foil out-of-town real estate speculators who wanted to build homes on the property. The city, which owns the land, eventually took what had become a barely playable muni and spent $10 million to revamp it in 2002 under the direction of Arthur Hills and Steve Forrest. They replaced the Bermuda grass with heat-tolerant seaside paspalum to yield greener fairways and fuller lies, and drained and reshaped a dozen ponds. The result is an artful, well-manicured course that packs plenty of punch. Pay particular attention on the par-three seventeenth, a 183-yarder that requires a carry over water and sand to a steeply sloping green.
2301 Alton Road, Miami Beach; 305-532-3350, miamibeachgolfclub.com. Yardage: 6,813. Par: 72. Slope: 131. Architect: Arthur Hills/Steve Forrest, 2002. Greens Fees: $120–$200.
BEST OF THE REST
Don Shula’s Golf Club (305-820-8106) is a pleasant resort course that enjoys almost a cult following, thanks in part to the coach’s original steakhouse in the adjoining hotel. With its gentle greens and manageable length, the Gold course at Doral (305-592-3000) serves as either an ideal warmup to the mighty Blue Monster or a much needed confidence-restorer afterward; the resort also boasts Greg Norman’s desert-style Great White, whose bite was recently softened by the Shark himself. Also worthy are the Country Club of Miami (305-829-4700), home to a pair of Robert Trent Jones Sr. eighteens, and the Diplomat Country Club & Spa (954-883-4444), which displays the touch of Florida design legend Joe Lee.
Where to Stay
The Biltmore This grande dame and National Historic Landmark has been a hub of South Florida social activity since it first welcomed sun-seeking guests in 1926. Nods to contemporary tastes include a fitness center and wellness spa, while the 23,000-square-foot pool, where Esther Williams and Johnny Weissmuller once cavorted, remains a favorite. So do its festive Sunday brunch and the Tuesday-night "Cigars Under the Stars."
1200 Anastasia Avenue, Coral Gables; 305-445-1926, biltmorehotel.com. Rooms: $319–$359. Suites: $389–$1,995.
Doral Golf Resort & Spa It’s no wonder PGA Tour pros look forward to this annual stop on the Florida swing. Just seven miles from Miami International Airport, Doral is the quintessential Florida golf resort: five courses and a Jim McLean school, a leading spa, on-site shopping and a camp for the kids. The resort, now operated by Marriott, began its ongoing $40 million renovation in 2004.
4400 N.W. 87th Avenue, Miami; 305-592-2000, doralresort.com. Rooms: $129–$219. Suites: $399–$489.
Ritz-Carlton, South Beach Opened on New Year’s Eve 2003, this oceanfront palace sits squarely in the art deco district and is itself a lavishly retrofitted iteration of an art moderne hotel designed by the architect Morris Lapidus in 1953. The new incarnation includes a 16,000-square-foot spa with a tanning butler and, by next fall, a restaurant to be run by Daniel Boulud.
One Lincoln Road, Miami Beach; 786-276-4000, ritzcarlton.com. Rooms: $239–$999. Suites: $400–$5,000.
The Sagamore This mainstay along bustling Collins Avenue is referred to as the "art hotel," thanks to its sculpture- and picture-lined lobby extending the length of the building. There’s also a gallery as well as original artwork in every guest room and, from the original 1948 design, touches like the restored marble and red-mahogany front desk. The lawn stretching from the back terrace to the beach is a favorite at cocktail hour.
1671 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-535-8088, sagamorehotel.com. Suites: $295–$4,000.
The Setai Art deco yields to Asian minimalism at this Zen-like South Beach temple of cool. Originally built in the late 1930s as the Dempsey Vanderbilt Hotel, the Setai fully opened a year ago with the building’s interior transformed. The grand lobby announces the studied aesthetic: A veritable palace of teak, bronze, Shanghai brick and artwork from the Far East, it leads you into a courtyard designed around a tranquil pond.
2001 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-520-6000, setai.com. Suites: $900–$6,000.
Fairmont Turnberry Isle Resort & Club The stucco facades, arched promenades and terra-cotta roofs suggest the Mediterranean, but this resort actually lies in the exclusive South Florida enclave of Aventura. Most appealing of all is its Ocean Club, which features a fine restaurant with Atlantic views. The resort is nearing completion of a $100 million renovation.
19999 West Country Club Drive, Aventura; 305-932-6200, fairmont.com. Rooms: $189–$899. Suites: $469–$4,900.
Where to Eat
Blue Sea (Sushi) Strategically located in an alcove above the main lobby of the Delano Hotel—another of South Beach’s beachfront art deco destinations on Collins Avenue—this is a great place to partake of the young-and-trendy ethos, even if you are staying elsewhere. The long communal table encourages socializing, the atmosphere is casual, and the food—sushi, caviar and other seafood entrées—is light and reasonably priced.
1685 Collins Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-674-6400. $$
Cantina Beach (Coastal Mexican) The restaurant’s open-air, thatched-roof dining area makes it a hit with kids. But mom and dad will have plenty to interest them as well, including offerings from the Mexican-trained "tequilier." Cantina Beach’s cuisine consists of Cabo San Lucas–inspired food, such as fish tacos, lobster quesadillas and ceviche. Convenient to downtown Miami, the restaurant fronts the beach at the Ritz-Carlton in Key Biscayne.
455 Grand Bay Drive, Key Biscayne; 305-365-4500. $$$
Casa Tua (Italian) A secluded villa on a residential street sequestered from the throbbing South Beach scene, Casa Tua serves "progressive" Italian cuisine in a choice of settings. There is outdoor and indoor seating, including a twenty-seat communal chef’s table especially amenable to solo diners.
1700 James Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-673-1010. $$$$
Chispa (Latin fusion) The name means "spark," and Chispa draws its inspiration from several Hispanic sources, especially Spain and Cuba. The large dining room is contemporary but comfortable, and the menu offers something for everyone. Standards such as empanadas are reliable, but more adventurous options, like cava fondue with crisp root vegetables or seared octopus, are the way to go. Located in what seems a sedate neighborhood of Coral Gables, the long friendly bar draws a lively happy-hour crowd.
225 Altara Avenue, Coral Gables; 305-648-2600. $$$
Joe’s Stone Crab (Seafood) Sure, this large, columned place has tourista written all over it, but some institutions come by their reputations honestly, in Joe’s case because of family ownership that dates back to 1913 and a menu that specializes in irresistible hard-shell stone crabs. They don’t take reservations here, but after you’ve visited once you can resort to Joe’s Take-Out or Joe Goes Direct Shipping. The hours and menu vary by season, so check before you go.
11 Washington Avenue, Miami Beach; 305-673-0365. $$$
The Veranda (New World) As formal as this generally informal town gets—the dress code for dinner hours is "resort elegant"—this restaurant overlooks the promenade and pool gardens at Fairmont Turnberry Isle Resort & Club. The wine list is extensive, and while the cuisine is gourmet, signature dishes tend toward familiar favorites like Florida yellowtail snapper and herb-crusted Colorado rack of lamb. Closed during the resort’s renovation, the Veranda reopens December 15.
19999 West Country Club Drive, Aventura; 305-932-6200. $$$
Tapas & Tintos (Spanish) Situated in Española Way, a small enclave of upscale shops and restaurants off the main drag in South Beach, this is a cordial if sometimes raucous neighborhood joint known for its paellas, tapas, mojitos and flamenco nights. It offers an extensive selection of Spanish wines.
448 Española Way, Miami Beach; 305-538-8272. $$
Vix (Fusion) The menu here draws on what the chef, James Wierzelewski, calls "the four palates": Asia, the Middle East, the Mediterranean and Latin America. These worldy influences show up, among other places, in a Chinese noodle dish with barbecued duck and lobster, and in a seafood medley over coconut rice.
1144 Ocean Drive, Miami Beach; 305-779-8888. $$$$
Orientation
GETTING THERE
Like many major urban airports, Miami International Airport (MIA) can resemble a construction zone as much as a transportation hub. But the place seems much less a work in progress of late. It is served by nearly a hundred airlines and is an easy commute to and from downtown Miami (twenty minutes away) and points south, including the Florida Keys. A less congested alternative, especially for destinations north and west of Miami, is Fort Lauderdale International, about twenty-five miles north of MIA.
CLIMATE
Escaping wintry conditions up north is an absolutely legitimate motive for scheduling a trip to Miami during the peak season of December through March. Average high temperatures hover in the low to mid-seventies, and it rains less than at any other time of year. That said, spring and summer aren’t without their appeal: Daylight hours last longer, prices drop considerably, tee times become easier to get, and there are fewer minimum stays. Sure, it’s hot—it’s Miami.
Private Gems
Greater Miami has fewer private clubs of note than the region’s affluence and illustrious golf history might suggest. Indian Creek Country Club (1928), situated in an exclusive residential community on a 300-acre island off the coast of Miami Beach, was designed by William Flynn of Shinnecock fame. La Gorce Country Club (1927) in the heart of Miami Beach lies atop two million-plus cubic yards of earth dredged from Biscayne Bay for the construction of the course. Within a year of its opening, the club hosted the Miami Beach-La Gorce Open, won by Johnny Farrell. Robert Trent Jones Sr. tweaked the original H.C.C. Tippets layout in 1953 and Jack Nicklaus redesigned it in 1995. Deering Bay Yacht & Country Club (1991) in Coral Gables is home to a scenic and well-regarded Arnold Palmer layout that unfolds along a secluded inlet of the Biscayne Bay Aquatic Preserve.
Architecture
ART DECO TOURS
South Beach possesses the largest collection of art deco buildings of any neighborhood in North America. For a full appreciation of this elegant Jazz Age school of design, accented in the Miami vernacular of pastel-hued and neon-emblazoned facades, take a guided walking tour offered by the Art Deco Welcome Center (305-531-3484), located at Tenth Street and Ocean Drive.
WORKS IN PROGRESS
An impressive roster of internationally acclaimed architects have projects currently in the works in Miami. Among them are Frank Gehry, Richard Meier, Enrique Norten and the team of Jacques Herzog and Pierre de Meuron. What’s more, by year’s end Cesar Pelli’s $461 million Carnival Center for the Performing Arts is due to open. The complex will feature a towering lobby, a 2,400-seat opera house, a concert hall that holds 2,200 and a small theater, all connected by a foot bridge over Biscayne Boulevard.
Into the Wild
THE EVERGLADES
Miami’s dazzlingly built environment makes it easy to forget that the city lies just thirty-five miles from Everglades National Park (nps.gov/ever). The third largest national park in the lower forty-eight states, the Everglades encompasses one and a half million acres, a vast subtropical wilderness of mangrove forests, hardwood hammocks, shallow flats, cypress groves and sawgrass marshes. It harbors more than three hundred species of birds, along with copious aquatic life including alligators and manatees, and more than one thousand species of plants. Most visitors tour the Everglades by car, opting for the eighty-mile round-trip drive from Royal Palm Visitor Center to Flamingo, on Florida Bay.
SPORT FISHING
Miami is also blessed with proximity to the prime fishing grounds of the Gulf Stream. A host of charter services offer half- and full-day sport-fishing excursions, supplying all the bait and tackle—and even hauling in your catch, should you happen to hook a hefty marlin, sailfish, tuna, wahoo, snapper or kingfish. One convenient option is Sea Cross (seacrossfishingmiami.com), a charter service that docks at Bayside Marina, minutes from downtown Miami.
