© Bobby Fisher
San Juan is part cosmopolitan capital, part colonial city, and part beach town. Old San Juan is its cultural center; cobblestoned streets run up from the waterfront, past historic plazas, and 16th-century churches. Behind the façades of 500-year-old buildings, chefs are imbuing Latin cuisine with far reaching global flavors in cuttingedge restaurants—creating a culinary scene that is beginning to attract the attention it deserves. Outside San Juan proper, old neighborhoods are embracing a new energy. In Santurce, galleries have set up shop next to markets. Art Deco homes and post millennium designer shops line the streets of Condado. And retro coffee shops abut yoga studios in Ocean Park.