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What to do, where to stay, and where to eat in Rome

© David Ciccone

Several years past its third millennium mark, the warmest of European capitals is more captivating than ever. Rome’s dramatic physique, from her majestic antiquities to her sinuous baroque curves, has been thrown into even higher relief by a modern trend that has made its presence felt in a major way: in hotels, restaurants, and shops that have adopted a more current, international aesthetic. Traditionalists needn’t worry, however—Rome is still very much enamored of her past, and you can find old-school establishments all over town if you know where to look. While the Colosseum and the Vatican still loom large in the skyline and identity of Rome, you’ll discover the true soul of the city away from the big sights—in neighborhood coffee bars and trattorias, and from riders of Vespas exchanging boisterous greetings while passing on cobblestone backstreets. For a city this stylish and accomplished, Rome’s remarkable accessibility, even for first-time or short-term visitors, is her most generous asset.

T+L Editors' Picks

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Rome Features

Europe’s Hottest New Restaurants May, 2008

T+L contributor Anya von Bremzen shares her latest European discoveries.

Rome’s Developing Subway April, 2008

How does one of the world’s most historic cities build a groundbreaking subway line? Extremely slowly—and with teams of archaeologists standing by.

Roman Holiday December, 2007

This family swore off exchanging presents (hallelujah!) and gave themselves the biggest and best Christmas gift of all. No wrapping necessary

Three Roman Hideaways June, 2007

At this trio of diminutive hotels you can pick your style: fashionable luxury, über-exclusivity, or postcard-perfect charm

Hidden Rome February, 2007

Esquilino and Testaccio may not be the prettiest neighborhoods in Rome, but they’re two of Gary Shteyngart’s favorites—where artists and butchers mingle with immigrants and intellectuals, and everyone eats very, very well.

$250 a day: Roman Holiday August, 2006

Visiting Rome’s most cinematic sites doesn’t have to be a big-budget affair. All you need is a good bicycle and a little inspiration from some vintage films.

Sex, God, and Rock 'n' Roll August, 2005

On intimate terms with controversy, rebellion, and—perhaps surprisingly—religion, Bob Guccione Jr. pays a visit to the official heart of Catholicism, the Vatican.

Sets and the City October, 2004

The magical dovetailing of real Rome and celluloid Rome predates Fellini. On location with director Wes Anderson, Thomas Beller finds history repeating itself

Just Back from Rome: Matthew Marks May, 2005

'When I have limited time in Rome, I try to see works of art that are meant to be seen, and exist, only here'

T+L Reports: Rome for Real December, 2006

T+L Reports: Garden State October, 2005

T+L Reports: Roman Holiday August, 2005