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Its praises have been sung in lyrics familiar the world over. Those girls (and boys) from
Ipanema—and Copacabana, Leblon, Lapa, and fast-gentrifying Santa Teresa—are proud to call
themselves Cariocas. And no wonder: despite its problems (the notorious favelas, or slums,
are plagued by drug- and gangrelated unrest), the city has myriad charms. Peaks swathed in
emerald jungle rise up between shining apartment towers, and the ultra-rich and the very poor mingle on Rio’s beaches. Culture mavens find bliss among Centro’s Modern-architecture masterpieces, while fashion fans get their fix from homegrown designers. After dark, the entire city pulsates with samba and bossa nova.