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Tasting the Winelands

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Wine estates in South Africa tend to be either architecturally interesting or in beautiful locations, or both. Most are open regularly to visitors (call a day in advance for tours). Winery employees are extremely knowledgeable, not to mention friendly. And tastings rarely run more than $3 a person (and that might include 12 different wines).

Here are 10 lesser-known producers on the rise. Their vintages represent current trends in South African wine making: a movement away from traditionally favored varietals such as Chenin Blanc and Pinotage; an emphasis on red-wine production; the emergence of small producers focused on terroir, and quality rather than quantity. Recommendations are for wineries in the heart of the region, which have the most to offer travelers in terms of choice, quality, and infrastructure.

AVONDALE A young winery outside Paarl, Avondale has a brand-new, cathedral-like tasting room and some excellent wines, including an unusual sweet Muscat Rouge with a fresh, lovely jasmine nose. 27-21/863-1976; www.avondalewine.co.za.

BUITENVERWACHTING All the historic estates in Constantia are worth visiting, but be sure you don't skip this one, which is as pretty as any and less busy; try its two unique blends, the easy-drinking Buiten Blanc and the Bordeaux-style Christine. 27-21/794-5190; www.buitenverwachting.com.

DORNIER WINES Swiss artist Christopher Dornier's Stellenbosch winery would be notable for its resolutely modern design even if vintner Ian Naudé's current releases (two reds and a white) weren't so exceptional. A must. 27-21/880-0557; www.dornierwines.co.za.

GRANGEHURST WINERY Sample Jeremy Walker's supple 1999 Nikela blend (Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinotage, Merlot) and his 1999 Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot, a classic Bordeaux-style wine with great backbone. 27-21/855-3625; www.grangehurst.co.za.

JP BREDELL WINES Port is the reason to stop here; Anton Bredell's 1999 Late Bottled Vintage is dense and rich, with the older reserve vintages taking things to the next level. 27-21/842-2478; www.bredellwines.co.za.

KEN FORRESTER WINES Wine lovers drop by Forrester mostly to eat at 96 Winery Road, the property's restaurant, the unofficial HQ of industry insiders. Match the pâté of smoked snoek, a local fish, with a bottle of Forrester's Chenin Blanc. 27-21/855-2374 (winery), 27-21/842-2020 (restaurant); www.kenforresterwines.com.

LAIBACH Stunning vintages including the fantastic Pinotage (2001) with surprisingly restrained fruit and a supple 2001 Friedrich Laibach Cabernet-Merlot blend. Pack a picnic and have lunch on the deck overlooking the valley. 27-21/884-4511; www.laibach.co.za.

L'AVENIR WINE ESTATE Notable for its range of wines, L'Avenir also represents a positive vision of the future of wine tourism in South Africa, with its stand-up tasting counter manned by cheerful young people. 27-21/889-5001; www.lavenir.co.za.

LE RICHE WINES On this cult Stellenbosch estate in an unpretentious farm setting, Etienne Le Riche makes beautifully structured Cabernet Sauvignons. The 2000 and 2001 vintages are both winners. 27-21/887-0789.

WATERFORD Six-year-old Waterford is one of the region's most extravagant wineries, a Tuscan-style building with an allée of clementine trees. Winemaker Kevin Arnold (formerly of Rust en Vrede) still has room to grow, but he's well on his way to making Waterford a classic. 27-21/880-0496; www.waterfordwines.com.

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