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Guide to Costa Rica

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When to Go

The rainy season lasts from May to September; calm weather from November through April is hospitable to outdoor activities.

Getting There

Major U.S. carriers offer direct daily flights to San José from more than half a dozen U.S. cities. The Liberia International Airport is served by American, Continental, and Delta.

Where to Stay

Great Value: Arenal Observatory Lodge A former study site for the Smithsonian Institution, this tidy wood lodge lies within rumbling distance of the magnificent Arenal Volcano—and inside the boundaries of a national park. 011-506/290-7011; arenalobservatorylodge.com; doubles from $93.

El Remanso Lodge This family-run inn was built with local ecology in mind: six roomy, open-air cabins on 170 acres of beachfront land, erected using fallen hardwoods and powered by solar energy. Osa Peninsula; 011-506/735-5569; elremanso.com; doubles from $250, including meals.

Florblanca Villas Located near Cabo Blanco, Costa Rica’s oldest protected wilderness area, an intimate spot and a favorite among honeymooners for its 11 sumptuous seaside villas. Santa Teresa, Nicoya Peninsula; 011-506/640-0232; florblanca.com; doubles from $495.

Four Seasons Costa Rica at Peninsula Papagayo The country’s top luxury outpost is not without eco-flourishes, including open-air guest rooms and a golf course lauded by Audubon International for its sensitive environmental design. Peninsula Papagayo; 011-506/696-0000; fourseasons.com; doubles from $735.

Great Value: Harmony Hotel Just off Nosara Beach, Harmony’s simple elegance doesn’t compete with the area’s dense foliage. It’s also an ideal location for trips to watch Olive Ridley turtles nest. Nosara, Nicoya Peninsula; 011-506/682-4114; harmonynosara.com; doubles from $320.

Hotel Grano de Oro Built in 1910, this pristine 38-room inn has long enjoyed a reputation as one of the capital’s finest accommodations. San José; 011-506/255-3322; hotelgranodeoro.com; doubles from $100.

Hotel Punta Islita An attentively run resort that offers guests the opportunity to experience the local community; visit the village of Islita, recently transformed into a sparkling outdoor gallery for area artists. Islita, Nicoya Peninsula; 011-506/231-6122; hotelpuntaislita.com; doubles from $300.

Lapa Rios Sixteen striking wood bungalows with outdoor showers make up this rain-forest lodge on a lush 1,000-acre site. Private trails provide frequent macaw and

monkey sightings. Osa Peninsula; 011-506/735-5130; laparios.com; doubles from $500, including meals.

Monteverde Lodge & Gardens Charming mountain inn near the Monteverde Cloud Forest reserve with the requisite environmental credits: they recycle, and use solar-heated water (even for the whirlpool). Cerro Plano; 011-506/257-0766; monteverdelodge.com; doubles from $129.

Playa Nicuesa Rainforest Lodge An eight-room inn that sits on the tranquil waters of the Golfo Dulce. Reachable only by boat, it is an excellent base for kayakers. Golfo Dulce; 011-506/258-8250; nicuesalodge.com; doubles from $340, including meals.

Tiskita Lodge Extravagant ocean views are de rigueur at this 800-acre hillside establishment near the less- traveled Panamanian border. Owner and environmental activist Peter Aspinall has helped reintroduce the scarlet macaw to the area. Punta Banco; 011-506/296-8125; tiskita-lodge.co.cr; doubles from $260, including meals.

Great Value: Tortuga Lodge Ideally situated in the middle of Costa Rica’s "mini-Amazon," where access is exclusively by boat. Tortuguero; 011-506/257-0766; tortugalodge.com; doubles from $102.

Where to Eat

Bakea Chef Camille Ratton marries French technique with fresh Central American ingredients. Don’t miss the tarta de pasiones with crème of passion fruit. Barrio Amón, San José; 011-506/221-1051; dinner for two $60.

Miss Junie’s This isn’t a restaurant. It’s a place of pilgrimage—for hearty Caribbean fish stews and robust jerk chicken. Reservations are needed, so drop in to let them know you’re coming. Tortuguero; 011-506/709-8029; dinner for two $20.

Where to Shop

Biesanz Woodworks Exquisite decorative items are made from farmed tropical hardwoods by Barry Biesanz, one of the country’s top craftsmen. Escazú; 011-506/289-4337; biesanz.com.

What to Do

Corcovado National Park A wilderness enthusiast’s dream, the 127,000-acre rain-forest park is home to four species of monkey, as well as jaguars, tapirs, and flocks of wild scarlet macaws. Puerto Jiménez; 011-506/735-5036; pncorcovado.org.

Monteverde Cloud Forest Biological Reserve This private reserve stands 5,000 feet above sea level and is the place to see the elusive Mayan quetzal bird. Santa Elena; 011-506/645-5122; cct.or.cr.

Sky Trek The most dramatic zipline tour around, featuring 11 lines and the country’s tallest platform. Santa Elena; 011-506/645-5238; skytrek.com; $44.

Tortuguero National Park In July and August, this is where to see leatherback, hawksbill, and green sea turtles laying their eggs. Tortuguero; 011-506/710-2929.

Tour Operators

Costa Rica Expeditions From swanky beach-bumming to nature hikes, Michael Kaye’s highly reputable company, in operation since 1978, can plan it for you. San José; 011-506/257-0766; costaricaexpeditions.com.

Horizontes This long established agency can organize botany, birding, or photography tours, and more. San José; 011-506/222-2022; horizontes.com.

Osa Aventura An independent group of naturalists directed by biologist Mike Boston leads custom wilderness treks on the Osa Peninsula. Puerto Jiménez; 011-506/735-5758; osaaventura.com.

—Carolina Miranda Silva

Copyright © 2008, American Express Publishing. All rights reserved.