Where to Stay, Eat and Go | Travel + Leisure
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Where to Stay, Eat and Go

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Air Jamaica has daily flights from Miami, New York, and Atlanta to the island's two main airports, Norman Manley International in Kingston and Donald Sangster International in Montego Bay. The airline also runs 20 domestic flights between Montego Bay and Kingston every day. Unfortunately, driving on Jamaica is not as simple as getting there. A compass is essential, as is the comprehensive Jamaican Tourist Board map of the island. Be advised that the route numbers are of no use; they don't correspond to signage. Road signs in general are scant, so it is wise to have with you a skilled navigator who can study the map—and the compass—frequently. Hiring a driver through a company such as J.C.A.L. Tours (876/952-7574; www.jcaltours.com; from $25 per person) is another excellent option.

WHERE TO STAY
Goldeneye
A discreet island getaway for well-heeled playboys and girls. Also the former residence of Ian Fleming, creator of James Bond. DOUBLES FROM $895. ORACABESSA, ST. MARY; 800/688-7678 OR 876/975-3354; www.islandoutpost.com

Half Moon Montego Bay
In 2004 Montego's grandest golf resort celebrated its 50th anniversary. The Seagrape Terrace is a top-notch lunch spot. DOUBLES FROM $390. MONTEGO BAY, ST. JAMES; 800/626-0592 OR 876/953-2211; www.halfmoon.com.jm

Jake's
Get away from the gated all-inclusives of Negril and Mo'bay at this funky resort with Moroccan-style villas and surfside shacks on stilts.DOUBLES FROM $95. TREASURE BEACH, ST. ELIZABETH; 800/688-7678 OR 876/965-3000; www.islandoutpost.com

Ritz-Carlton Golf & Spa Resort, Rose Hall
Set on 5,000 acres, this 427-room property with a 600-acre oceanfront golf course is just 15 minutes from Sangster International Airport. DOUBLES FROM $425. ROSE HALL, ST. JAMES; 800/241-3333 OR 876/953-2800; www.ritzcarlton.com

Rockhouse Hotel
Thatched-roof stone villas with private outdoor showers and four-posters draped in mosquito netting. Don't miss a 30-foot dive off the craggy cliffs. DOUBLES FROM $100. NEGRIL, WESTMORELAND; 876/957-4373; www.rockhousehotel.com

Round Hill Hotel & Villas
This colonial fantasia for the Newport and Sea Island set is hidden in a quiet cove on the grounds of a former pineapple plantation. DOUBLES FROM $420. MONTEGO BAY, HANOVER; 800/972-2159 OR 876/956-7050; www.roundhilljamaica.com

Royal Plantation
The all-inclusive Sandals resort chain's bid to redeem its association with bottomless margaritas and topless beaches instead offers super-luxury amenities. DOUBLES FROM $420. OCHO RIOS, ST. ANN; 888/487-6925 OR 876/974-5601 www..com

WHERE TO EAT
Howie's
A deluxe roadside cookshop serving the region's specialty, "pepper shrimp": spicy, chile-flecked river crayfish. LUNCH FOR TWO $12. MIDDLE QUARTERS, ST. ELIZABETH; NO PHONE

Jack Sprat
For Jamaican specialties second to none—conch soup, festival (hush puppies), and bammy (cassava pancakes)— try this beachfront spot steps away from Jake's. DINNER FOR TWO $20. TREASURE BEACH, ST. ELIZABETH; 876/965-3583

Little Ochie
A superb seafood restaurant just east of Treasure Beach. The daily catch is prepared to order—four popular styles are with garlic, buttered, brown-stewed, and fried. DINNER FOR TWO $50. ALLIGATOR POND, MANCHESTER; 876/965-4450

Scotchies
The jerk pit of our dreams, just a mile from Sangster International. The smoky pork and the beef sausage are exemplary. LUNCH FOR TWO $14. MONTEGO BAY, ST. JAMES; 876/953-8041

WHAT TO DO
Appleton Estate Rum Tour
Jamaica's oldest rum distillery offers an informative introduction to its 21-year-old rum: a mellow after-dinner sip with vanilla and cocoa notes. If you're lucky, you'll catch a glimpse of Appleton's master blender, Joy Spence. SILOAH DISTRICT, ST. ELIZABETH; 876/963-9215

Red Stripe Reggae Sumfest
Music is one of Jamaica's biggest exports, and this is the island's premier event, a weeklong party (July 17-23) featuring old-school rock-steady greats Alton Ellis and Marcia Griffiths, along withthe latest dance-hall and hip-hop stars, such as Kanye West and Beenie Man. MONTEGO BAY; 876/953-2933; www.reggaesumfest.com

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