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A car is essential for touring Napa. Highway 29 is the main artery of the 30-mile-long valley; the more scenic Silverado Trail is less crowded on weekends.

WHERE TO STAY
Calistoga Ranch
DOUBLES FROM $525. 580 LOMMEL RD., CALISTOGA; 800/942-4220 OR 707/254-2800; www.calistogaranch.com

Carneros Inn
DOUBLES FROM $315. 4048 SONOMA HWY., CARNEROS; 888/400-9000 OR 707/299-4900; www.thecarnerosinn.com

Meadowood Napa Valley
Ask for one of the newly remodeled lodges at this full-service resort. DOUBLES FROM $600. 900 MEADOWOOD LANE, ST. HELENA; 800/458-8080 OR 707/963-3646; www.meadowood.com

BEST VALUE El Bonita Motel
Clean, no-frills rooms just minutes from St. Helena's shops and wineries. DOUBLES FROM $135. 195 MAIN ST., ST. HELENA; 800/541-3284 OR 707/963-3216; www.elbonita.com

WHERE TO EAT
Angèle
Country French bistro on the river, from Claude Rouas, founder of the Auberge du Soleil. DINNER FOR TWO $90. 540 MAIN ST., NAPA; 707/252-8115

Bouchon
Young scenesters congregate at this bistro's raw bar nightly. DINNER FOR TWO $65. 6534 WASHINGTON ST., YOUNTVILLE; 707/944-8037

Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen
Haute-comfort food maven Cindy Pawlcyn's most personal restaurant yet. DINNER FOR TWO $65. 1327 RAILROAD AVE., ST. HELENA; 707/963-1200

French Laundry
Best restaurant in America? Expensive, and worth it. DINNER FOR TWO FROM $250. 6640 WASHINGTON AVE., YOUNTVILLE; 707/944-2380

Julia's Kitchen at COPIA
Produce from the center's organic gardens and dishes inspired by Julia Child herself. DINNER FOR TWO $95. 500 FIRST ST., NAPA; 707/265-7500

Market
Careful comfort food from a Restaurant Gary Danko alum. DINNER FOR TWO $50. 1347 MAIN ST., ST. HELENA; 707/963-3799

Pilar
A newcomer with a simple, personal approach to seasonal California cuisine. DINNER FOR TWO $70. 807 MAIN ST., NAPA; 707/252-4474

Taylor's Refresher
America would be a happier place if every roadside diner were this outstanding. DINNER FOR TWO $40. 933 MAIN ST., ST. HELENA; 707/963-3486

Terra
Southern French cuisine with Asian influences, by chefs Hiro Sone and Lissa Doumani. DINNER FOR TWO $90. 1345 RAILROAD AVE., ST. HELENA; 707/963-8931

BEST VALUE La Luna Market & Taqueri'a
Policemen and CEO's alike flock to La Luna for terrific Mexican takeout. DINNER FOR TWO $15. 1153 RUTHERFORD RD., RUTHERFORD; 707/963-3211

WHERE TO SIP
Cabernet may be king, but there's a dramatic range of wine- tasting experiences available in Napa. Call ahead; most wineries require appointments.

Casa Nuestra
The Chenin Blanc is usually sold out, but the reds are outstanding too. 3451 SILVERADO TRAIL N., ST. HELENA; 707/963-5783

Chateau Montelena Windery
The winery that took first place at the 1976 Paris tasting still produces whites and reds of great distinction. 1429 TUBBS LANE, CALISTOGA; 707/942-5105; www.montelena.com

Del Dotto Vineyards
A superb tour with generous pours and one of the oldest wine caves in the region. 1055 ATLAS PEAK RD., NAPA; 707/256-3332; www.deldottovineyards.com

Frog's Leap
This irreverent winemaker was a pioneer in the region's organic renaissance. 8815 CONN CREEK RD., RUTHERFORD; 707/963-4704; www.frogsleap.com

Long Meadow Ranch
Organic wines and olive oils and a grass-fed Highland Cattle ranch. 1775 WHITEHALL LANE, ST. HELENA; 707/963-4555; www.longmeadowranch.com

Spring Mountain Vineyard
These steeply climbing vine-yards produce a head-turning Bordeaux-like blend, Elivette, and a great Syrah, too. 2805 SPRING MOUNTAIN RD., ST. HELENA; 707/967-4188; www.springmtn.com

Von Strasser Winery
Owner Rudy von Strasser pushed through recognition for the new Diamond Mountain AVA; he creates some lusciously complex wines. 1510 DIAMOND MOUNTAIN RD., CALISTOGA; 707/942-0930; www.vonstrasser.com

WHERE TO SHOP
Jaunt
A boutique for the jet set: shoes by Camper, handmade leather totes, and travel journals. 1422 MAIN ST., ST. HELENA; 707/967-9594

Napa Valley Orchids
Debra Atwood's clients include Calistoga Ranch, but her orchids are reasonably priced and can be packed for travel. AT THE NAPA AND ST. HELENA FARMERS' MARKETS; 707/255-8266

Napa Soap Co.
Watch Sheila Rockwood make handmade soaps from buttermilk, Cabernet Sauvignon, and roasted coffee. 651 MAIN ST., ST. HELENA; 707/963-5010

Olivier Napa Valley
A foodie haven with Staub kitchenware, a blend-your-own olive oil bar, and a superb line of tapenades and flavored oils. 1375 MAIN ST., ST. HELENA; 707/967-8777

Woodhouse Chocolate
Fine chocolates made with ingredients like orange blossoms and passion fruit. 1367 MAIN ST., ST. HELENA; 800/966-3468

Buffalo's Shipping Post
This experienced wine shipper will wrap your bottles and get them safely home to you. 2471 SOLANA AVE., NAPA; 707/226-7942

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