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Puerto Vallarta is busiest from December to April, when temperatures hover in the 80's and humpbacks passing through Banderas Bay on their annual migration attract whale-watchers. Take a cue from Mexican travelers, many of whom visit in June, when afternoon rains reduce the heat, or after the rainy season, from October through late November.
Continental flies to PV via Houston; American Airlines connects through Dallas–Fort Worth.
Choco Banana The Plaza, Sayulita; 52-329/291-3051; breakfast from $3.
Don Pedro's 2 Calle Marlin, Sayulita; 52-329/291-3090; dinner for two $70.
El Espresso 51 Revolución, Sayulita; breakfast from $6.
Fiambala 10 Gaviotas, Sayulita; 52-329/291-3086; dinner for two $37.
Marisma Corner of Naranjo and Basilio Badillo Streets, Puerto Vallarta; no phone; tacos from $1.35.
Pollo Yolanda Calle José Mariscal, Sayulita.
Hacienda San Angel 336 Miramar, Col. Centro, Puerto Vallarta; 415/738-8220; haciendasanangel.com; doubles from $345.
Haramara Retreat 16 Tamarindos; 888/494-3688 or 52-329/291-3558; haramararetreat.com: doubles from $120.
Four Seasons Resort, Punta Mita Punta Mita, Bay of Banderas; 52-329/291-6000; fourseasons.com; doubles from $375.
Les Oiseaux Volants 4A Calle Delfin, Sayulita; 52-329/291-3468; lovesayulita.com; seven-bedroom villa for $1,200 per night.
Great Value: Petit Hotel d'Hafa 55 Avda. Revolucion, Sayulita; 52-329/291-3806; sayulitalife.com; doubles from $55.
Verana Verana Yelapa SA; 800/530-7176; verana.com; doubles from $480.
Villa Amor Calle Villa Amor, Sayulita; 52-329/291-3010; villaamor.com; doubles from $99.
Fleur d'Oranger 53B Avda. Revolución; 52-322/135-1110; massages from $30.
Jungle Hair Design 12 José Mariscal, Sayulita; 52-329/291-3402.
Encuentros 312 Lázaro Cárdenas; no phone.
Jaeti 52D Avda. Revolución, Sayulita; 52-329/222-0643.
La Hamaca 110 Avda. Revolución, 52-322/227-5817; sayulitalife.com.
Los Sabores de Sayulita 10 Calle Primavera, Sayulita; 52-329/291-3099.
Pachamama 4B Calle Delfin, Sayulita; 52-329/291-3468; lesgazelles.com.
Sayulita Gypsy Gallery 10 Marlin Street, Sayulita; 52-329/291-3385.
Yemaya 40C Avda. Revolución, Sayulita; 52-329/291-3839; yemayaboutique.com.
Gringos in Paradise (Scribner, $26), an account of magazine writer Barry Golson's move from New York to Sayulita to build his dream house.
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