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The city is at its best from December through April, when daily temperatures range from the mid 70’s to the high 80’s and the humid days give way to breezy nights. Christmas, New Year’s, and Easter are especially busy, and hotels book up months in advance.
Avianca offers a direct 2 1/2-hour flight to Cartagena from Miami. Continental has connections through Panama City, while other carriers connect through Bogotá.
This intimate and luxurious hotel opened in 2007; some upstairs rooms have antiques original to the building. doubles from $356.
The most reasonably priced of the small hotels. doubles from $205.
A favorite of the fashion set. doubles from $388.
Known as the Santa Teresa, this former convent has more character than its larger competitor across town. doubles from $350.
An agency offering Cartagena’s best rental options, including stately mansions and one-bedroom apartments. houses from $700, apartments from $400.
On a quiet corner by the city walls. doubles from $323.
Cartagena’s first luxury hotel is in a peaceful part of town with a view of the sea, but most of the rooms are boxy and bland. doubles from $350.
The sophisticated Caribbean fare draws a chic crowd. dinner for two $75.
As urbane as 8-18 but more subdued. dinner for two $60.
Traditional Caribbean cazuelas—spicy seafood stews—are served without fuss at a restaurant that deserves its reputation for having the most authentic food in town. dinner for two $25.
Cartagena’s see-and-be-seen power spot; the atmospheric setting makes up for less-than-dazzling food. dinner for two $81.
The bars by the Portal de los Dulces are always rowdy, and most nights out include a drink at one of the sidewalk tables set up at the Baluarte Santo Domingo fortress by Café del Mar, but skip the tourist traps on the Plaza de Santo Domingo.
There’s dancing almost every night at this bar deep inside an iffy part of Getsemaní—take a taxi there and back. Corner of Media Luna and Guerrero; 57-315/690-2566; cafehavanacartagena.com; drinks for two $9.
A lively bar with music on Fridays, a short taxi ride from the central city. Parque Centenario; 57-5/664-1372; drinks for two $7.
This 300-year-old man-made mountain of coral and brick is one of the most formidable Spanish forts in the Americas. Bring a penlight to navigate the dimly lit passageways. 17 Pie del Cerro; 57-5/666-4790.
The tropical-fruit–colored façade hides a marble interior that offers a cooling respite from the hot city streets. Plaza de Bolívar; no phone.
Claver Moldering but imposing, the church contains the relics of the 17th-century Jesuit who baptized thousands of slaves. Plaza San Pedro Claver; 57-5/664-7256.
Plaza de Bolívar; 57-5/664-7381.
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