Where To Stay and Eat and What to Do | Travel + Leisure
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Where To Stay and Eat and What to Do

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WHEN TO GO

Spring, summer, or early autumn.

GETTING THERE

There are direct flights from New York and Atlanta to Athens. From the capital, take a 50-minute flight to Chios, where there's a regular ferry to Çesme, in Turkey.

WHERE TO STAY

Chios

Argentikon
Part of the high-end Greek chain Yades, the hotel has eight suites, most in stand- alone buildings.
Kambos area; 30-227/103-3111; www.argentikon.gr; doubles from $1,000.

Chios Chandris
Enjoy citrus groves, quiet balconies, and views of the port.
2 Eugenias Chandris St., Chios Town; 30-227/104-4401; www.chandris.gr; doubles from $165.

Manganos
Simple, inexpensive lodgings in a lovely setting in the Kambos area.
1 Vitiadou Rd.; 30-227/103-2539; doubles from $50.

Sirince

Sirince Evleri
Charming two-building hotel. 90-232/898-3099; www.sirince-evleri.com; doubles from $75, including breakfast.

Izmir

Marla
Clean, affordable hotel in the old Konak section of the city, near the harbor and the market.
7 Kazimdirik Cad.; 90-232/441-4000; doubles from $100.

WHERE TO EAT

Chios

Argentikon
In the hotel.
Dinner for two $100.

O Kambos
Popular taverna on the main road out of Chios Town. Full disclosure: run by step-cousins of the author.
Kambos; 30-227/ 103-2855 dinner for two $20.

To Talimi
Delicious tirópites, gouvétsi, and—a grudging nod across the water—the Turkish eggplant specialty imam baldi.
Thymianá; 30-227/103-2940; dinner for two $20.

Çesme

Cevat'un Yeri
Fresh, fresh fish on a small harbor in Dalyanköy.
Liman Cad.; 90-232/724-7045; dinner for two $35.

WHAT TO DO

Chios

Anavatos
This medieval fort, now being restored, is a 45-minute drive up winding roads from Kambos. The view of the sea and Turkey beyond is worth the climb.

Emboriós
Quiet town four miles south of Pyrgi, with a volcanic-pebble black beach.

Mesta
Charming 14th-century village.

Pyrgi
A town of vaulted, labyrinthine streets, 15 miles southwest of Chios.

Izmir

Ethnography Museum
Looms, bridal costumes, Ottoman swords, old photos, dioramas, and reconstructions of traditional rooms. Bahri Baba Park, in Konak.

Sirince

Antique de Scalanova
One of several antiques shops.
62 Selcut Sirince; 90-232/898-3267.

Ephesus
A well preserved archaeological site. Take a tour with one of the on-site guides.

WHAT TO READ AND SEE

Smyrna 1922: The Destruction of a City
By Marjorie Housepian Dobkin. A dispassionate but riveting account of a largely forgotten chapter of recent Greek, Turkish—and American—history.

Middlesex
By Jeffrey Eugenides. Pulitzer Prize–winning novel that deals, in part, with the burning of Smyrna in 1922.

America, America
Elia Kazan's 1963 film is about the director's uncle, who grew up in the Greek minority of a small Turkish village.

Copyright © 2008, American Express Publishing. All rights reserved.